Cork is the capital of County Cork in the Republic of Ireland and has been twinned with Coventry since 1958. You can find out more about this link here. This year our connection with Cork has been strengthened by visits including those of two Coventry poets, Amy and Ann. In this post Amy describes taking in the sights and sounds of Cork. If you want to know more about here Amy’s work and why she writes you can see this interview in a past edition of ‘Here Comes Everyone’ an online magazine of poetry, fiction, articles and artwork, click here.
A Poet’s Progress
Friday 9th August
When Raef Boylan, co-host of Coventry’s own Fire and Dust and lead editor of ‘Here Comes Everyone’, invited me to be one of the Cork/Coventry Twin Cities Exchange poets, I was excited, scared and deeply humbled. Excited to be working alongside Ann Atkins, an accomplished and award-winning writer and performer. Humbled to be selected, and a bit scared; as someone who rarely takes holidays, this trip would be exceptional. After accepting, I decided to go two days earlier, aiming to experience Cork for myself. I wondered what adventures awaited me.
As my plane took off, I mused: they say the world’s more connected than ever, but would I feel a connection where I was going?
Saturday 10th and Sunday 11th August
Landing in the early hours, I taxied to my accommodation: a charming, terraced stone sail makers cottage in Douglas.
Over the weekend, I hopped on and off buses visiting Cork City’s Huguenot Quarter, St Patrick’s Street and Crawford Gallery and spent a day in charming Kinsale taking a harbour cruise around the bay, enjoying fish chowder then homemade ice cream on the promenade.
Monday 12th August
Met Ann, Tracy and Paul Casey, Ó Bhéal’s director at our traditional bed and breakfast hotel on the Western Road. From there we made our way to Fitzgerald Park where I met fellow poet and musician, Brendan Duffin, who guided us as we visited University College Cork, viewing the Ogham Stones and the Arts and Crafts era Honan Chapel, with its blue and white mosaic river ‘flowing’ down the chapel’s central aisle.
Brendan had impressive specialist knowledge of Hibernian music and history and was friendly and informative. From there we made our way to the English Market, a colourful, vibrant hub of fresh fish, artisan bread, produce and speakers of local and distant dialects. I reflected that, markets, like open mics, are communities working together to create something greater than themselves, to welcome strangers and celebrate talent.
Later that evening, The Hayloft, home of Ó Bhéal’s open mic, where we would perform, soon filled with poets and poets’ friends who greeted one another in reunion and collaboration.
The impressive hybrid set up welcomed online poets from across the globe, including Coventry, smiling down from a huge screen. The Five Word Challenge kicked off the second part of the evening with a striking array of pieces performed and applauded. I felt nervous as the time for performing drew near. Looking around, I recognised Rosalin (Sue) Blue and Cathal Holden from last year’s Twin Cities Poetry Exchange in Coventry. Stan Notte warmed up the crowd, and invited Ann to take the mic. Ann’s set brought the house down with her unique brand of humour and delivery. Then it was my turn. I was shaking but felt a spark with the audience. We ended with many accomplished artists sharing their work. Mayor Dan Boyle addressed the crowd on the mutual benefits of our Twin Cities initiative.
We met our two exchange counterparts, Catherine Ronan and Cedric Bikond, travelling over to perform this October.
Afterwards, we visited an intriguing pub, formerly a chemists. Despite the late hour, I was enthralled by chatting to people from many different countries. Suddenly it was 2 am – time to pile into the taxi and go home. How did I stay up so late?
Tuesday 13th August
Breakfast was the mighty full Irish then, we made our way to City Hall to meet Mayor Boyle who was welcoming and knowledgeable about both Coventry and Cork. We signed the official visitors’ book and shook hands cordially.
As we spilled out onto the street, we met up with some of the Ó Bhéal crew and Monika and Nikolai, part of the Coventry International Association of Friendship. We sped off for Clonakilty, stopping by Owenahincha Beach for fish and chips, visiting ancient Drombeg Stones, passing charming villages. How fortunate we were to be made so welcome by the generosity of Cork people.
Dipping my toes in the wild cobalt Atlantic, I reflected on the diaspora of those who left this place, navigating hostile oceans and communities; leaving home is never easy.
That evening we performed at DeBarra’s Folk Club, hosted by Moz Jacobs. Welcomed by friendly regulars, the smaller crowd contained a rich variety of poetry including a few first timers.
Wednesday 14th August
After breakfast, we paid Cork and Kinsale one last visit with Catherine, before saying heartfelt ‘thank you’s’, promising to meet on ‘the other side’ of our exchange.
During the car journey home from Stanstead, our quiet conversations knitted up Cork experiences with tales from the past as The Midlands wound us back to her. At home I reflected on new adventures, fresh rhythms, uncommon connections and new faces who seemed both strangers and long-lost friends.
Amy Rugg